This started out a Sigelei 213 that began misbehaving… It’s never surprising to see a production box mod having an issue, but I certainly don’t hear about it as often anymore. This is a good thing.
To be fair – Sigelei has really improved their quality control over the last few years and I’ve only seen a few 213’s that had issues. I do not recommend taking apart your working Sigelei 213 for any reason other than it failing on you. To disassemble it you WILL have cut at least 1 wire. The original 510 “nut” was particularly hard to remove because there are too few places to grip the piece.
Other than that there aren’t that many pieces to keep track of. The entire construction has a very sleek and simple feel that reminds me of the earlier IPV Mini’s. Everything inside the enclosure is snug and almost every bit of space was used. This seems to be the winning dual 18650 battery design with the board resting on the largest area of battery sled. The Joyetech Cuboid was one of the first production boxes (if I remember) to have this design.
If I did this again I would use a smaller potentiometer (dial). I managed to fit the deck and pot by overlapping them, which gave me enough space for the button. I suppose you could move the deck further out as well. I didn’t.
The PWM board has all components mounted to the front side of the board.
There is a nice groove down the battery sled to run 16 gauge wires from the backside of the board.
All the inputs are connected from only one side of the board, which makes it a good candidate for the 213’s layout.
At this point I made an executive decision and reversed the original battery polarity layout.
I cut into the top of the battery contact housing to allow movement of the 510+. The 510- connect is routed around the pin and its direction is important when tightening the nut later on.